I went to Cyprus in March, when it is already sunny and warm, but not as hot as in the summer yet. So, perfect time to get the impression of the island, that is the most eastern point of the EU. What I found there impressed me more than I expected.
The island isn't big, about a 100 km east to west, and I'll discuss here the southern part only, the one that is in the EU; the story of the northern part you may find HERE (link is repeated at the end).
So, mostly, it's all about the shore and I will take that route here.
Ayia Napa monastery (click to enlarge)
Ayia Napa is a regular vacation spot you might find anywhere in the world, full of fancy and budget restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, rentacars etc. Since it wasn't a full season yet, bars and clubs were in the state of face-lifting procedure, so it looks kinda sad but optimistic in a I-can-still-be-on-the-market way. One thing worth visit is Ayia Napa monastery, still keeping its beauty from the 15th century past. Anyway, I know how it looks when crowded with teenagers drunk or stoned, rolling on the streets and flashing tits and weenies, but it isn't my cup of tea, so, I just passed, but you may take my YouTube video HERE
Flamingos @ Larnaca Salt lake (click to enlarge)
Larnaca, a coastal town without glamour, is boring, but if you're located at it, as I was, you learn to find places of interest. Promenade is quite uninteresting, alright, palms and benches, but nothing much beside it. Waterfront facades trying hard to leave impression stay unnoticed: bars and restaurants are grabbing your attention on one side, while boats with annoying captain-wannabes scream 'watch me' on the other. If you're a birdwatcher, try to find way to Larnaca Salt lake (Αλυκή Λάρνακας), with the population of 30 thousand birds, and among 85 species, between 2000 and 12000 pink flamingos.
Maqam Al Sultan falafel (click to enlarge)
Maqam Al Sultan lebanese restaurant is the right place for those who like Mediterranean cuisine. Comfy indoor seating, with huge windows looking at the sea, soft lounge music and very hospitable and helpful staff. I had falafel with vegetable, tabbouleh salad, pita bread and the food was great, I can tell as someone who prefers vegetarian. I was accompanied with those who ate meat, telling me their meal was excellent, as well, so don't hesitate. Kalamaki is another place to grab a glass of wine and/or enjoy the meat bites. Post-industrial cantina interior and menu tells me it was opened with the intention of a steak meeting point, but luckily, carnivores aren't the only welcome crowd here. I had Prawns skewer, Cypriot village salad, grilled halloumi cheese and red house wine, and food was finger licking. Wooden chairs are a bit hard to sit on, but the loud music and chat will make you forget it.
If you follow seaside further west, you'll see Kamares Aqueduct, right from highway, and Choirokoitia, a neolitic place that is the most important prehistoric excavation in the eastern Mediterranean. You won't see much here, since only a part of it is found and open to the public. If you go on by highway, you'll reach Limassol, modern city with the wide boulevard full of shiny places that whisper 'spend-spend-spend' in your ear. Luxurious hotels and dinings, really nice promenade on the shore, similar to Barcelonetta and La Malagueta, with palms and wooden pavings will make you want to get back once more, have a long walk, enjoy the occasional outdoor artworks, view of the sea, and the sound of waves and seagulls. Sea breeze must be really refreshing in the summer, when the sun literally burns everything here.
Marina @ Limassol (click to enlarge)
The largest port in Cyprus also has Old town, built mostly in British colonial style, which is only one of the British remains in the island. Beside the obvious progress they installed in all their colonies (roads and railways, postal service and establishment of educational system, introduction of art, sports and social clubs) Brits also had a disastrous role in historical/political circumstances they later met all over the world (India, Ceylon, South Africa, Israel, Egypt, Rhodesia...), and you may see the pattern here, but more on that in part 2 of this review (see HERE)
Limassol's development began after the year of 1974 with tourism. In the 1990, continued with the money laundering, in the 2000s with the russian realty investments and today with just about any of that.
View from Kourion (click to enlarge)
Going further west will lead you to Kourion archaeological site from hellenistic period. Absolutely amazing, these remains will show you all the capital features of the ancient Greek architecture. Floor mosaics are sheltered under a huge tent structure, so you may enjoy them (and the magnificent view of the shore) from the deep shadow (sometimes windy). See the fabulous amphitheater, Apollo sanctuary, houses with pools....To see my YouTube video click HERE
Thirty kilometers west are Petra tou Romiou and the Aphrodite hills, both tourist attractions, the former a beach with the rock in the sea marking the birthplace of Aphrodite (swimming three times around it will provide you eternal life) and the latter a form of gated social club resort complex with all hospitality features. If still not convinced, my YouTube video might help. Click HERE
Pafos (click to enlarge)
If you continue that direction you'll see Pafos, maybe the best historical attraction in Cyprus, with the Neolithic, pre-hellenic structures from 12th century bC.
Tombs of the kings @ Pafos (click to enlarge)
One significant part are Tombs of the kings, something absolutely amazing, the stone structures carved in the ground, with spaces from the other world. Do not miss, if you get the chance to visit. You may see my YouTube video HERE
Modern Pafos is a small coastal town, with plenty of silly moneygrabbers in form of ice-cream parlors, bars, restaurants and boutiques, with all the funny hot-boddied-east-european lures trying to get you in their reserve.
Now, 40 km up north, there's Polis and Latchi beach, a place where Cypriots come to swim in the summer. On the border of the Akamas peninsula National park, it has lovely white sand beach and crystal blue sea. If you're lucky enough to stay here for few days, you might experience the plankton swim, a sort of Avatar-like fairy-tale scenery sport. If not, grab a chance to see the Baths of Aphrodite, a freshwater spring in the wild forest, shadowed and hidden from the tourist beaten path.
You'll have to get back to Pafos or even Limassol to turn left, and go uphill to Platres, Kakopetria and Pelendri, small villageson the Mount Trodos.
Mount Trodos (click to enlarge)
Why you should go there? Because the region is famous for the villages and churches from the byzantine period - nine churches and one monastery are on UNESCO World Heritage list. Because you might go to the mountain top by car and see whole island (fantastic) through the pine woods, although the top itself is still under British "military presence". Because, you may go to Kakopetria, see how Cypriot village used to look like, and go to The Mill, a mountain hotel and restaurant, for amazing dish. I was privileged to be taken there by my dear friends, and have the absolutely BEST grilled trout I ever had as a lunch. The hotel is family-ran with the patriarch, a charming cosmopolitan senior gentleman that makes every single guest feel at own home.
See my YouTube video from Trodos HERE
The capital of Cyprus is Nicosia/Lefkosia, located in the middle of the island, where first inhabitants lived 4500 years ago. Plenty of history here, from Hellenic period, byzantine and medieval to modern. Old town has interesting round fortification structure, actually star-like with eleven bastions and three gates, built during Venetian rule.
City itself has a great vibe: on a daylight it is quite busy and loud, and so relaxed, mysterious and with a glimpse of danger at night. At some point reminded me of Jerusalem, another divided place with nice atmosphere. People are friendly, like anywhere else in Cyprus, and still full of life. Central area with pedestrian streets around Ledra is very vivid, and still not as touristy as the coast. Plenty of cafes, restaurants, nice bars and various shops are a shopping heaven. You'll find just about every world brand here (Makarios III Ave and Stasikratous), but more interesting, plenty of small shops with authentic design, sort of hand made production.
Eating here is easy to find and tasty as well:there's a restaurant everywhere and for every taste, from the splendid local cuisine to the global trash bins like MackieDee and PizzaHut.
As I mentioned in Part 1, Cyprus came under British administration in late 19th century, and some forms of presence remained to the present day. The division of the city/island is a direct consequence of this presence, since, for some unknown reason, all British administration left inter-ethnic conflicts after withdraw. Nicosia is not an exception, and borderline, ecologically called Green line, strikes the middle of the city. The fences, walls and warning signs are everywhere.
Now, take a look at the map, and see the way the northern part is spreading its tentacles as giant Hydra into the southern flesh. Similarly, they are penetrating Nicosia/Lefkosia. Whole island has seven official gates, and I decided to pass and see what is going on there by using the eastern one, Pyla, which was the closest one to my hotel.
Just a 20 minutes drive away, and you're at the Checkpoint Pyla/Pergamos, with the first glance taken by British officer. Then, you proceed to the kiosk of the northern authorities to get a stamped paper letting you "in". Free to go.
Well, not really, and you'll see why.
First stop, Famagusta, is about 15 minutes after you pass the passport control. First impression, nothing really different from Larnaca surrounding. Palm beach hotel is the last point on the east you can get to, there's a lovely sandy beach at the front, shallow crystal blue sea, light sea breeze, sun...a perfect spot for a lovely holiday.
But, wait!
Famagusta (click to enlarge)
The perfect sand beach is cut with the barbwire and guardhouse, with an armed guard watching you. An Armageddon landscape is behind it: ruined, demolished structures of hotels, private houses, residential buildings, and everything else is standing in silence. No windows and doors. Demolished facades, and crazy vegetation everywhere. There's a broken elevator : you may see half of its tunnel broken, with the railings twisted into open-air like some giant Sci-Fi plant, with broken cabin laying on the ground. Palms are nice, also are the bushes, and the grass is 1 m high. Birds are chirping happily. No people, except the guards, still watching closely what we're doing. This is Varosha, the ghost town, vanished in 1974, and now forbidden for the public. It used to be a fancy tourist area of Famagusta, you can still see the grandeur of the 1960s hotels, the remains of the architecture and the lovely waterfront promenade, now totally neglected and ruined. When Greeks fled out, after the occupation, the area was sealed for the public visits.
Former inhabitants are not allowed to return.
Visitors are unwelcome.
Public attention is redundant.
Free pass is discouraged.
Famagusta (click to enlarge)
We drove around Famagusta, to see the rest of the city, and there was a constant chill. Military presence is not visible, but imposed and drastic. Whatever you want to do, seems questionable. Big warning signs are hanged everywhere saying "No photos" and when you try to turn the camera on, seems like all faces are turning to you.
Is it me, or they are quite suspicious?
So, we continued the trip further west, with landscapes that might be similar to the ones on the south, if they were developed the similar way. However, they aren't. Dusty roads, rusty traffic signs, walls, sort of veiled and gated outdoor (so usual in islamic countries)....and the provocative giant flag with semi-crescent and a star on Pentadaktylos mountain, established to be seen from the south - See here
Rustic door in Kyrenia/Girne (click to enlarge)
Kyrenia/Girne, 80 km away (or 30 km north from Nicosia), is touristy coastal town with Venetian castle from 15th century as a major attraction. See YouTube video HERE Fun fact: According to the 1973 census, 67.7% of the city's inhabitants were Greek Cypriots, while the Turkish Cypriots made up 25.1% of the population. Today, census counts only Turkish majority.
Bellapais Abbey (click to enlarge)
Since there wasn't much to do, I went to the best place in the area, Bellapais Abbey, since it's just a 15 min drive up the mountain. This absolutely stunning place is a 13th century monastery complex, within which the church is best preserved. I enjoyed it in the sunset, when the colors were different, and whole surrounding was magical. The monastery was shut down in 16th century, and later only small repairs were done. Still, its vivid and photogenic beauty is visible even from a distance. Complex hosts a museum and a nice restaurant, so, don't miss a chance to enjoy the spectacular view from above, and have a meal and coffee at the complex restaurant Kybele.
The night fell, and it was good time to get back, so easiest way was to follow highway to Nicosia/Lefkosia, and do the exit procedure in Agios Dometios suburb. When you're back, everything looks different, trust me.
Before I wrote this entry, I went to TripAdvisor to see impressions of other people on the same spots I visited. I always do that for compare and contribute. There were 5321 reviews for this attraction. So, honestly, what is there to say about it, that isn't already written? What image could be uploaded that isn't already shot and posted? What insider info isn't already noticed and revealed? Fun fact: 271 people find it "Average", 108 "Poor" and 59 consider it "Terrible". (!?!?!?!) During my studies of architecture, Pompeii appeared as a hidden gem from time to time. Last year, while studying for The Roman Architecture course at Open Yale University, it blasted as one of the most important spots in historical Europe. With a reason. Taking the risk of being repetitive, I'll try to convince you NOT TO MISS it in any way. Yes, the condition is bad. Yes, the signage is ridiculous/non-existent. Yes, it is generally crowded. Yes, everybody calls themselves a guide. But, you'll completely understand how they lived in Ancient Rome only if you see it.
You'll be able to imagine the grandeur of Pompeii Forum, see how they lived in their houses, walked through their streets, enjoyed the mosaics and wall paintings, still visible after 20 centuries. It is, as any other Forum, placed at the intersection of Cardo and Decumanus, the S-N and E-W main street of any Roman city. Almost all european cities that had roman roots, still have two big streets on the same path. This one is a typical example with
Capitolium or Temple of Jupiter (150 bC), a combination of Etruscan and Greek plans, made from tufa
Basilica (120 bC), with similar plan to the Forum itself: rectangular space with entrance from Forum, with columns inside and with focus at the end
Colonnade, with greek orders changing vertically was put up later.
You also could enter Terme, the baths, to see why it was SO important for the later architectural development. Baths were built in 80 bC with similar structure as Terme Stabiane, but better preserved. It has vivid decoration in stucco and paintings on walls. Baths have well-placed openings on domes and semi-domes and vaults for bringing natural sunlight inside.
The most importat rooms are:
Apodyterium, the dressing room Tepidarium, the warm room Caldarium, the hot room, sauna Frigidarium, the cold room to cool off. It is domed and architecturally it ends up in Pantheon some day. So, use the unique opportunity to learn about the craddle of the later architectural styles, and see where it all started.
You might visit a House of Faun, a huge private house. This baby takes entire block of Pompeii, it is much larger than other houses. It is one of the hellenized domus houses, with columns inside , and pilasters on each side of the entrance. Besides the statue of Faun, there is an interesting room with mosaic of Alexander Exedra on the floor. Don't miss.
You'll be able to approach the Amphitheater, and hear the roar of wild animals, the metallic sound of swords and the loud yell of the crowd. The superstar of Pompeiian entertainment district, it was built in 80 bC for gladiatorian and animal fights. It is the first preserved amphitheatre, with Arena (the central area where spectacle happens), Vomitoria (exits and entrances into arena), and blind arcades near them.
You may enter the Theater and smaller music hall, and check the fantastic acoustic settings in all its spots, unchanged for centuries. The theater and music hall, as we would say today, dates back to 70-80 bC. Theater-back is semi-circular shape cavea with wedge-shaped cunei. Orchestra is also semi-circular, not round and with scenae at the front, and porticus at the front of all that. Porticus is an open rectangular space with covered colonnades on each side, to provide space for people during intermissions, but also preps, shops, etc...
Roman theaters were based on greek ones, with some differences: the greek theater has a circular orchestra (roman has semi-circular, like here), and was built on the hills while Romans built them in urban areas on a hill made out of concrete.
No visit to Pompeii is complete without seeing Villa dei Misteri, place that entered all study books of architecture and art. Room No5, right of the tablinum, is plain rectangular room with small entranceway. There you'll see walls presenting: a)Dyonisian mysteries: monumental figures done in Second style Roman wallpainting (fake columns, added perspective) and b)Mystical marriage: young Pompeiian woman that is going to take part in mystical marriage with god Dyonisius.
Vivid colors, gestures and expressions will amaze you, and give you a hint how majestically it looked in the beginning of aD era. You could walk the streets with rising cross-stones to step on and stay dry when it is raining. You may see Thermopoliums, the fast-food-parlors of BC time. You may understand better how life went here before it was brutally stopped in August 24th,79 AD. Take a look at one of my videos:
If I, with the plenty of guidebooks and traveler sites didn't convince you, maybe you should re-consider your trip, since this is maybe one of the most important spots in Campania. Maybe something else is there for you (look below).
Sanctuary of the Madonna of the Rosary or Pontificio Santuario della Beata Vergine del Santo Rosario di Pompei
With its neoclassical stone facade that culminates with the statue of Vergine del Santo Rosario (carved in single block of Carrara marble) and heavily decorated with golden mosaics and bright colors paintings, this is the most important attraction of "The new Pompeii". Few years ago, Pope Benedict XVI presented his Golden Rose to the shrine.
I don't know what exactly took me inside, since it has quite uninteresting appearance from outside. Inside is "boring traditional" with plenty of locals eating and chatting/laughing/arguing aloud. For me it was business as usual, since I do speak italian, but faces of three japanese tourists were absolutely priceless every time the laughter or a scream roared :-D
The food was excellent, they are famous for pizza (oh, what else?) and I tried one with rucola+crushed tomato, one with provolone+olives+olive oil and a 1/2 of red house wine. Wine was quite good (and strong!) and pizzas were absolutely fantastic. Come here to eat, you won't regret.
Coffee experience is a complete one. It takes quality ingredients, cosy surrounding, pleasant company and relaxed atmosphere. As someone who enjoys taste as much as atmosphere and social dimension, I find coffeeshop chains quite practical in moments when you need your caffeine boost. As someone who's deeply into bar culture, I sometimes tend to overcriticize them. Use of paper cups, polystyrene and plastic cutlery may be practical, but I simply hate it, no matter what others think, snobbery or not.
This time I'll be just plain objective.
If there was a Starbucks hate-group, I wouldn't be in the board of directors. Let's be honest, what they call coffee is a watery, smelly colored liquid with acidic over-roasted taste. Way too often, their "coffee" comes-in last in blind taste tests. The bullshit named "Strawberries & Crème Frappuccino® Blended Crème" or "Chestnut Praline Latte" has taste, yes. But, who on Earth would seriously order it, knowing it is a blend of artificial flavors and tastes? Strawberries and chestnut my ass. "Pumpkin Space Latte" one of the most popular products, is rich in healthy nutrients like sugar and colorants, and, luckily, has no trace of real pumpkin. Read here what's REALLY inside.
The interior design of post-industrial employee cafeteria only underlines the general concept of late-capitalism: you spend to enjoy the rags, so we can enjoy the riches. Back in the late '80s when it flourished, it was cool, of course it was, bringing the fresh, new idea into the scene. I remember the first time I entered one, the first thing that dropped my mind was "This is so furious Billy Idol". Twenty five years later it is "This is so tired Britney Spears". Fun fact: Starbucks has round tables in their coffee shops to make solo coffee drinkers feel less alone.
A damaged front window of a Starbucks coffee shop in Toronto
It simply became McDonald's and Dunkin' Donuts sort of faceless chains of uniformed tasteless meals and drinks. Along with other big corporate ideas, it brought some really terrible concepts: Venti is a serving measured 24 US fl oz (710 ml). Now, who the hell drinks THAT cup of coffee with 415 mg of caffeine ? Trenta is a serving measured 31 US fl oz (920 ml). Luckily, only healthy drinks like sodas (rich in sodium and sugar) are served in it. In case you still don't get it, here's a picture: average adult needs ~2000 calories a day, and Double Chocolaty Chip Crème Frappuccino® Blended Crème easily hits 540. If you add Old-Fashioned Glazed Doughnut with 480, you're in coffee-break trouble.
I hate being a boner killer, but I think it is better option to enjoy your cup at some small-scale bar with the friendly barrista and a comfy sofa. In Italy, having café at the bar has different meaning and price from the one at the table. In France, it is an excuse for watching people and flirt. In Middle East, it is one of the most important social gathering institutions. In China, where consumption is still developing, I payed for cup more than anywhere else.
Or, in case you are a house rat, do it at your own place, in which case, instead of Starbucks packaged coffee you better use real stuff for espresso or instant.
I had a daily meal here, and it was average pasta. Small, almost cosy restaurant with nice street window to sit in in rainy afternoon. Italian-wannabes owners are kind and quick.
Really very good pub/restaurant. Nice busy atmosphere during lunchtime. Warm interior. Food was really good, had pasta with chicken and pesto first time, and beef and zucchini second time. Very well prepared, tasty. Service was quick. Restaurant has huge variety of beers and spirits, so don't hesitate to try not only local things. Recommendations.
Came here on a cold February afternoon, just before 2pm and hopped onto a Lunch menu, that had salmon with potato and salads that day. Food was excellent (compliments for chef), house wine was up to my taste. Service was really good, guys were quick and helpful. Place is clean, pretty silent and crowded with lots of professor-like individuals. Really good experience.
When you get tired of art (yes, that IS possible) go to cafeteria to recover. Excellent food, for all tastes, really good casual but polite and silent service and mixed clientele. I had beef sandwich and beer, and felt really happy to pay more that usual for this type of food. But alright, I am type of person that actually likes to eat at museums and galleries. It was really fresh and big and tasty and good-looking. I recommend.
Little taverna on the beach, at the end of restaurant-chain on the west side of shore. Service was so-so, with guys desperately trying to talk greenglish, and make a conversation. Waited five minutes to get maletzanosalata and salad, and another half hour for grilled sardines. Food was absolutely perfect, all of it. In case you're not driving, get a glass of rose wine with your meal, goes great with it and with beach atmosphere.
Chillout beach cafe only five meters from the sea. Great for having afternoon coffee with a view on great and less great bodies. Deep shadow and quick and very polite service. Tasty greek coffee and the sound of waves. You need something else?
Shady beach taverna and bar with relaxed atmosphere. Good food. We had kokkinisto and shrimp saganaki with cabbage salad. Cabbage was served with a piece of lemon, just the way I like. Saganaki was a bit greasy, but tasty overall. Kokkinisto is served with rice and french fries (!?!?!), who knows what was in cook's head. Drunken english-speaking ladies stagger around with mugs and bottles, so it's a plus for fun and laugh.
Watermill of Zia, the cafe/resto on the pathway to the church, famous for the cinnamon drink (oversweetened cinnamon tea with ice) and lemonade. Spaghetti with garlic and tuna chunks+ greek salad+2 cinnamon drinks=21 euro. Nice terrace with a view. Cats all over the place. Great music. Almost-angry waiter.
Nice little taverna leaning on the ancient agora. Under wine leaves and with family of cats, this wonderful place will offer you a daily catch of fish. We had swordfish steak and grilled sea bass both with fresh vegetable salad and lime (25 euros), and both were heavenly prepared. Deep shadow, view on agora, chatty casual owner, mad cats and fresh fish....greek lunch.
Shop Street, Kardamena, Kos island, Greece Website
“This one I loved”
Lovely little cafe in one of walking streets in Kardamena, has great terrace at the front and stylish interior. Friendly waiter. Nice music.Not only tourists are among guests, but locals, too (local priest was having his cup of coffee with us). Sit outside, have your poison and watch people walk and chat. Cappuccino freddo x2=5,80 euros.
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At the western edge of Kardamena, there's a nice little restaurant, with interesting interior and a terrace that goes directly into 5m-wide beach. Yes, you may swim and jump dirctly to the table, and grab something to eat. We had grilled fresh sardines and greek salad, and the fish was among the best we EVER tried. Two plates of grilled sardines , greek salad and soda water, 22,5 euros. Staff VERY friendly, and totally casual at the same time. Relaxed music is played in the background.
Italian ristorante on the street that goes by the shore, in the vicinity of trendy hotels like Citi, Phillipeon and Akti. It has big (sort of) terrace, but for some reason it lacks atmosphere. Waiter seemed as interested as a random passenger, he didn't even notice the bottle and full ashtray of former guests (?). Menu seemed pretty ambitious, however, I can not discuss food, since I didn't eat here. We had a glass of red wine and Sprite for 7,50 euros, had refreshment, but unfortunately, this won't be a place to remember.
Camel Beach/Agios Stefanos, Kefalos , Kos island, Greece
“Beach food”
On-the-beach-taverna, also approachable from the main road to Kefalos. Looks pretty developed, since it is established in the 80s. Lovely terrace with shadow and mild sea breeze. I know some people will crucify me for this, but main thing to change- VERY annoying traditional music, and I say that as someone who really enjoys greek sounds and other forms of traditional music. We took two Katerina salads (strange mix of greek salad with crusty bread, pickeled basil (!!!!!) and cheese kept in red wine (whatahell!?!?!). With one soda, it was 15 euros. For those who prefer harder meals, there's a plenty of meat and fish on the menu, although some of it suspected frozen. Verdict- good enough for a lunch if you're on the neighboring beach, not so much if not.
City itself has a great vibe: on a daylight it is quite busy and loud, and so relaxed, mysterious and with a glimpse of danger at night. At some point reminded me of Jerusalem, another divided place with nice atmosphere. People are friendly, like anywhere else in Cyprus, and still full of life. Central area with pedestrian streets around Ledra is very vivid, and still not as touristy as the coast. Plenty of cafes, restaurants, nice bars and various shops are a shopping heaven. You'll find just about every world brand here (Makarios III Ave and Stasikratous), but more interesting, plenty of small shops with authentic design, sort of hand made production.
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