As I mentioned in Part 1, Cyprus came under British administration in late 19th century, and some forms of presence remained to the present day. The division of the city/island is a direct consequence of this presence, since, for some unknown reason, all British administration left inter-ethnic conflicts after withdraw. Nicosia is not an exception, and borderline, ecologically called Green line, strikes the middle of the city. The fences, walls and warning signs are everywhere.
Now, take a look at the map, and see the way the northern part is spreading its tentacles as giant Hydra into the southern flesh. Similarly, they are penetrating Nicosia/Lefkosia. Whole island has seven official gates, and I decided to pass and see what is going on there by using the eastern one, Pyla, which was the closest one to my hotel.
Just a 20 minutes drive away, and you're at the Checkpoint Pyla/Pergamos, with the first glance taken by British officer. Then, you proceed to the kiosk of the northern authorities to get a stamped paper letting you "in". Free to go.
Well, not really, and you'll see why.
First stop, Famagusta, is about 15 minutes after you pass the passport control. First impression, nothing really different from Larnaca surrounding. Palm beach hotel is the last point on the east you can get to, there's a lovely sandy beach at the front, shallow crystal blue sea, light sea breeze, sun...a perfect spot for a lovely holiday.
But, wait!
Famagusta (click to enlarge)
The perfect sand beach is cut with the barbwire and guardhouse, with an armed guard watching you. An Armageddon landscape is behind it: ruined, demolished structures of hotels, private houses, residential buildings, and everything else is standing in silence. No windows and doors. Demolished facades, and crazy vegetation everywhere. There's a broken elevator : you may see half of its tunnel broken, with the railings twisted into open-air like some giant Sci-Fi plant, with broken cabin laying on the ground. Palms are nice, also are the bushes, and the grass is 1 m high. Birds are chirping happily. No people, except the guards, still watching closely what we're doing. This is Varosha, the ghost town, vanished in 1974, and now forbidden for the public. It used to be a fancy tourist area of Famagusta, you can still see the grandeur of the 1960s hotels, the remains of the architecture and the lovely waterfront promenade, now totally neglected and ruined. When Greeks fled out, after the occupation, the area was sealed for the public visits.
Former inhabitants are not allowed to return.
Visitors are unwelcome.
Public attention is redundant.
Free pass is discouraged.
Famagusta (click to enlarge)
We drove around Famagusta, to see the rest of the city, and there was a constant chill. Military presence is not visible, but imposed and drastic. Whatever you want to do, seems questionable. Big warning signs are hanged everywhere saying "No photos" and when you try to turn the camera on, seems like all faces are turning to you.
Is it me, or they are quite suspicious?
So, we continued the trip further west, with landscapes that might be similar to the ones on the south, if they were developed the similar way. However, they aren't. Dusty roads, rusty traffic signs, walls, sort of veiled and gated outdoor (so usual in islamic countries)....and the provocative giant flag with semi-crescent and a star on Pentadaktylos mountain, established to be seen from the south - See here
Rustic door in Kyrenia/Girne (click to enlarge)
Kyrenia/Girne, 80 km away (or 30 km north from Nicosia), is touristy coastal town with Venetian castle from 15th century as a major attraction. See YouTube video HERE Fun fact: According to the 1973 census, 67.7% of the city's inhabitants were Greek Cypriots, while the Turkish Cypriots made up 25.1% of the population. Today, census counts only Turkish majority.
Bellapais Abbey (click to enlarge)
Since there wasn't much to do, I went to the best place in the area, Bellapais Abbey, since it's just a 15 min drive up the mountain. This absolutely stunning place is a 13th century monastery complex, within which the church is best preserved. I enjoyed it in the sunset, when the colors were different, and whole surrounding was magical. The monastery was shut down in 16th century, and later only small repairs were done. Still, its vivid and photogenic beauty is visible even from a distance. Complex hosts a museum and a nice restaurant, so, don't miss a chance to enjoy the spectacular view from above, and have a meal and coffee at the complex restaurant Kybele.
The night fell, and it was good time to get back, so easiest way was to follow highway to Nicosia/Lefkosia, and do the exit procedure in Agios Dometios suburb. When you're back, everything looks different, trust me.
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