Cyprus 1

I went to Cyprus in March, when it is already sunny and warm, but not as hot as in the summer yet. So, perfect time to get the impression of the island, that is the most eastern point of the EU. What I found there impressed me more than I expected.
The island isn't big, about a 100 km east to west, and I'll discuss here the southern part only, the one that is in the EU; the story of the northern part you may find HERE (link is repeated at the end).
So, mostly, it's all about the shore and I will take that route here.

Ayia Napa monastery (click to enlarge)

Ayia Napa is a regular vacation spot you might find anywhere in the world, full of fancy and budget restaurants, bars, cafes, shops, rentacars etc. Since it wasn't a full season yet, bars and clubs were in the state of face-lifting procedure, so it looks kinda sad but optimistic in a I-can-still-be-on-the-market way. One thing worth visit is Ayia Napa monastery, still keeping its beauty from the 15th century past. Anyway, I know how it looks when crowded with teenagers drunk or stoned, rolling on the streets and flashing tits and weenies, but it isn't my cup of tea, so, I just passed, but you may take my YouTube video HERE

Flamingos @ Larnaca Salt lake (click to enlarge)

Larnaca, a coastal town without glamour, is boring, but if you're located at it, as I was, you learn to find places of interest. Promenade is quite uninteresting, alright, palms and benches, but nothing much beside it. Waterfront facades trying hard to leave impression stay unnoticed: bars and restaurants are grabbing your attention on one side, while boats with annoying captain-wannabes scream 'watch me' on the other. If you're a birdwatcher, try to find way to Larnaca Salt lake (Αλυκή Λάρνακας), with the population of 30 thousand birds, and among 85 species, between 2000 and 12000 pink flamingos. 

Maqam Al Sultan falafel (click to enlarge)

Maqam Al Sultan lebanese restaurant is the right place for those who like Mediterranean cuisine. Comfy indoor seating, with huge windows looking at the sea, soft lounge music and very hospitable and helpful staff. I had falafel with vegetable, tabbouleh salad, pita bread and the food was great, I can tell as someone who prefers vegetarian. I was accompanied with those who ate meat, telling me their meal was excellent, as well, so don't hesitate.
Kalamaki is another place to grab a glass of wine and/or enjoy the meat bites. Post-industrial cantina interior and menu tells me it was opened with the intention of a steak meeting point, but luckily, carnivores aren't the only welcome crowd here. I had Prawns skewer, Cypriot village salad, grilled halloumi cheese and red house wine, and food was finger licking. Wooden chairs are a bit hard to sit on, but the loud music and chat will make you forget it.

If you follow seaside further west, you'll see Kamares Aqueduct, right from highway, and Choirokoitia, a neolitic place that is the most important prehistoric excavation in the eastern Mediterranean. You won't see much here, since only a part of it is found and open to the public. If you go on by highway, you'll reach Limassol, modern city with the wide boulevard full of shiny places that whisper 'spend-spend-spend' in your ear. Luxurious hotels and dinings, really nice promenade on the shore, similar to Barcelonetta and La Malagueta, with palms and wooden pavings will make you want to get back once more, have a long walk, enjoy the occasional outdoor artworks, view of the sea, and the sound of waves and seagulls. Sea breeze must be really refreshing  in the summer, when the sun literally burns everything here.

Marina @ Limassol (click to enlarge)

The largest port in Cyprus also has Old town, built mostly in British colonial style, which is only one of the British remains in the island. Beside the obvious progress they installed in all their colonies (roads and railways, postal service and establishment of educational system, introduction of art, sports and social clubs) Brits also had a disastrous role in historical/political circumstances they later met all over the world (India, Ceylon, South Africa, Israel, Egypt, Rhodesia...), and you may see the pattern here, but more on that in part 2 of this review (see HERE)
Limassol's development began after the year of 1974 with tourism. In the 1990, continued with the money laundering, in the 2000s with the russian realty investments and today with just about any of that.

View from Kourion (click to enlarge)

Going further west will lead you to Kourion archaeological site from hellenistic period. Absolutely amazing, these remains will show you all the capital features of the ancient Greek architecture. Floor mosaics are sheltered under a huge tent structure, so you may enjoy them (and the magnificent view of the shore) from the deep shadow (sometimes windy). See the fabulous amphitheater, Apollo sanctuary, houses with pools....To see my YouTube video click HERE
Thirty kilometers west are Petra tou Romiou and the Aphrodite hills, both tourist attractions, the former a beach with the rock in the sea marking the birthplace of Aphrodite (swimming three times around it will provide you eternal life) and the latter a form of gated social club resort complex with all hospitality features. If still not convinced, my YouTube video might help. Click HERE

Pafos (click to enlarge)

If you continue that direction you'll see Pafos, maybe the best historical attraction in Cyprus, with the Neolithic, pre-hellenic structures from 12th century bC.

Tombs of the kings @ Pafos (click to enlarge)

One significant part are Tombs of the kings, something absolutely amazing, the stone structures carved in the ground, with spaces from the other world. Do not miss, if you get the chance to visit. You may see my YouTube video HERE
Modern Pafos is a small coastal town, with plenty of silly moneygrabbers in form of ice-cream parlors, bars, restaurants and boutiques, with all the funny hot-boddied-east-european lures trying to get you in their reserve.

Now, 40 km up north, there's Polis and Latchi beach, a place where Cypriots come to swim in the summer. On the border of the Akamas peninsula National park, it has lovely white sand beach and crystal blue sea. If you're lucky enough to stay here for few days, you might experience the plankton swim, a sort of Avatar-like fairy-tale scenery sport. If not, grab a chance to see the Baths of Aphrodite, a freshwater spring in the wild forest, shadowed and hidden from the tourist beaten path.

You'll have to get back to Pafos or even Limassol to turn left, and go uphill to Platres, Kakopetria and Pelendri, small villages on the Mount Trodos.

Mount Trodos (click to enlarge)

Why you should go there? Because the region is famous for the villages and churches from the byzantine period - nine churches and one monastery are on UNESCO World Heritage list. Because you might go to the mountain top by car and see whole island (fantastic) through the pine woods, although the top itself is still under British "military presence". Because, you may go to Kakopetria, see how Cypriot village used to look like, and go to The Mill, a mountain hotel and restaurant, for amazing dish. I was privileged to be taken there by my dear friends, and have the absolutely BEST grilled trout I ever had as a lunch. The hotel is family-ran with the patriarch, a charming cosmopolitan senior gentleman that makes every single guest feel at own home.
See my YouTube video from Trodos HERE

The capital of Cyprus is Nicosia/Lefkosia, located in the middle of the island, where first inhabitants lived 4500 years ago. Plenty of history here, from Hellenic period, byzantine and medieval to modern. Old town has interesting round fortification structure, actually star-like with eleven bastions and three gates, built during Venetian rule.

City itself has a great vibe: on a daylight it is quite busy and loud, and so relaxed, mysterious and with a glimpse of danger at night. At some point reminded me of Jerusalem, another divided place with nice atmosphere. People are friendly, like anywhere else in Cyprus, and still full of life. Central area with pedestrian streets around Ledra is very vivid, and still not as touristy as the coast. Plenty of cafes, restaurants, nice bars and various shops are a shopping heaven. You'll find just about every world brand here (Makarios III Ave and Stasikratous), but more interesting, plenty of small shops with authentic design, sort of hand made production.

Eating here is easy to find and tasty as well:there's a restaurant everywhere and for every taste, from the splendid local cuisine to the global trash bins like MackieDee and PizzaHut.

See the next chapter HERE