Pompeii

Before I wrote this entry, I went to TripAdvisor to see impressions of other people on the same spots I visited. I always do that for compare and contribute. There were 5321 reviews for this attraction. So, honestly, what is there to say about it, that isn't already written? What image could be uploaded that isn't already shot and posted? What insider info isn't already noticed and revealed?
Fun fact: 271 people find it "Average", 108 "Poor" and 59 consider it "Terrible". (!?!?!?!)

During my studies of architecture, Pompeii appeared as a hidden gem from time to time. Last year, while studying for The Roman Architecture course at Open Yale University, it blasted as one of the most important spots in historical Europe.
With a reason.

Taking the risk of being repetitive, I'll try to convince you NOT TO MISS it in any way. Yes, the condition is bad. Yes, the signage is ridiculous/non-existent. Yes, it is generally crowded. Yes, everybody calls themselves a guide. But, you'll completely understand how they lived in Ancient Rome only if you see it. 

You'll be able to imagine the grandeur of Pompeii Forum, see how they lived in their houses, walked through their streets, enjoyed the mosaics and wall paintings, still visible after 20 centuries. It is, as any other Forum, placed at the intersection of Cardo and Decumanus, the S-N and E-W main street of any Roman city. Almost all european cities that had roman roots, still have two big streets on the same path. This one is a typical example with 

Capitolium or Temple of Jupiter (150 bC), a combination of Etruscan and Greek plans, made from tufa

Basilica (120 bC), with similar plan to the Forum itself: rectangular space with entrance from Forum, with columns inside and with focus at the end

Colonnade, with greek orders changing vertically was put up later.

You also could enter Terme, the baths, to see why it was SO important for the later architectural development. Baths were built in 80 bC with similar structure as Terme Stabiane, but better preserved. It has vivid decoration in stucco and paintings on walls. Baths have well-placed openings on domes and semi-domes and vaults for bringing natural sunlight inside. 

The most importat rooms are:

Apodyterium, the dressing room
Tepidarium, the warm room
Caldarium, the hot room, sauna
Frigidarium, the cold room to cool off. It is domed and architecturally it ends up in Pantheon some day.
So, use the unique opportunity to learn about the craddle of the later architectural styles, and see where it all started.

You might visit a House of Faun, a huge private house. This baby takes entire block of Pompeii, it is much larger than other houses. It is one of the hellenized domus houses, with columns inside , and pilasters on each side of the entrance. Besides the statue of Faun, there is an interesting room with mosaic of Alexander Exedra on the floor. Don't miss.

You'll be able to approach the Amphitheater, and hear the roar of wild animals, the metallic sound of swords and the loud yell of the crowd. The superstar of Pompeiian entertainment district, it was built in 80 bC for gladiatorian and animal fights. It is the first preserved amphitheatre, with Arena (the central area where spectacle happens), Vomitoria (exits and entrances into arena), and blind arcades near them.

You may enter the Theater and smaller music hall, and check the fantastic acoustic settings in all its spots, unchanged for centuries. The theater and music hall, as we would say today, dates back to 70-80 bC. Theater-back is semi-circular shape cavea with wedge-shaped cunei. Orchestra is also semi-circular, not round and with scenae at the front, and porticus at the front of all that. Porticus is an open rectangular space with covered colonnades on each side, to provide space for people during intermissions, but also preps, shops, etc...

Roman theaters were based on greek ones, with some differences: the greek theater has a circular orchestra (roman has semi-circular, like here), and was built on the hills while Romans built them in urban areas on a hill made out of concrete.

No visit to Pompeii is complete without seeing Villa dei Misteri, place that entered all study books of architecture and art. Room No5, right of the tablinum, is plain rectangular room with small entranceway. There you'll see walls presenting:
a)Dyonisian mysteries: monumental figures done in Second style Roman wallpainting (fake columns, added perspective) and
b)Mystical marriage: young Pompeiian woman that is going to take part in mystical marriage with god Dyonisius.

Vivid colors, gestures and expressions will amaze you, and give you a hint how majestically it looked in the beginning of aD era.

You could walk the streets with rising cross-stones to step on and stay dry when it is raining. You may see Thermopoliums, the fast-food-parlors of BC time.
You may understand better how life went here before it was brutally stopped in August 24th,79 AD.



Take a look at one of my videos:

If I, with the plenty of guidebooks and traveler sites didn't convince you, maybe you should re-consider your trip, since this is maybe one of the most important spots in Campania. Maybe something else is there for you (look below).

Sanctuary of the Madonna of the Rosary or Pontificio Santuario della Beata Vergine del Santo Rosario di Pompei  

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With its neoclassical stone facade that culminates with the statue of Vergine del Santo Rosario (carved in single block of Carrara marble) and heavily decorated with golden mosaics and bright colors paintings, this is the most important attraction of "The new Pompeii". Few years ago, Pope Benedict XVI presented his Golden Rose to the shrine.

And when you get hungry there's Zi Caterina. 

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I don't know what exactly took me inside, since it has quite uninteresting appearance from outside. Inside is "boring traditional" with plenty of locals eating and chatting/laughing/arguing aloud. For me it was business as usual, since I do speak italian, but faces of three japanese tourists were absolutely priceless every time the laughter or a scream roared :-D

The food was excellent, they are famous for pizza (oh, what else?) and I tried one with rucola+crushed tomato, one with provolone+olives+olive oil and a 1/2 of red house wine. Wine was quite good (and strong!) and pizzas were absolutely fantastic. Come here to eat, you won't regret.