The Alhambra, Granada

Dale limosna, mujer,
Give him alms, woman,
que no hay en la vida nada,
for there is nothing sadder in life
como la pena de ser ciego en Granada
than being blind in Granada



These lines are carved in stone at one of the gates at Alhambra, and nothing deserves them more than الْحَمْرَاء, The Red One. This palace, fortress and gardens complex is an absolute must if you're in Andalusia, not only because it is one of the UNESCO World heritage sites, but because the first citadel was built in 9th century, and turned into royal palace in 13th. Visit it even if you are not so close, you won't regret. I came on late December early morning, got frozen, but was struck with the beauty and history this magical place locked in.

Making pattern out of endless reproduction of the same element: muqarnas (stalactite ceiling decorations)

It is the great example of Islamic architecture and art, a bit atypical, and not as much directly influenced by Byzantine styles as Mezquita at Cordoba. Since it wasn't built with the masterplan of the total site (but with core and later gradual additions), it is designed in non-orthogonal and unorganized layout. The result is sometimes rather confusing: the 9th century citadel stands beside 13th century Muslim halls, palaces and courtyards, all befriended by 16th century inner palace of Charles V, who loved to stay in Granada.



Arabesques on the arch. The arabesque is a form of artistic decoration consisting of "surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patterns of scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils"

Romantic Arab architecture, amazing lace structures, colonnades and game of shades, fountains and ponds....all of it will take you to the sights and sounds of the lost past, your imagination could revive. Everything is designed according to the human dimension, and as an architect, I might say this is a perfect example of early ergonomic architecture.



If Arabs din't have developed urban layout system, they certainly brought knowledge of hydraulics and watering (among other sciences) into medieval Europe. The Alhambra was a masterpiece of this knowledge, where the sound of water splash was heard all over the place. Water, with architecture and vegetation had very important role in Muslim world, and these three things were widely included in everyday life.
The Fountain of Lions, made in alabaster, stands in the center of the court. Twelve lion figures form circle and hold the basin. Each hour one of lions spilled water from the mouth, joining that way the time dimension into sound/visual experience.

It takes a bit more than two hours to take a walk (rushed!) around, plus one more for the Generalife gardens. You'll walk a lot, so cosy shoes are essential. If you're coming from other area, be aware of local micro-climate: at the same moment Granada was colder 10 degrees than surrounding cities. Don't forget a bottle of water and camera.

Here's what I recorded in one of the courts: